When Justin suggested a day trip to Hadrian’s Wall from Edinburgh, I’ll admit, my knowledge of its significance was minimal. I knew it was old, and… well, it was a wall. But trusting his passion for history and Rabbie’s reputation for excellent small-group tours, I signed us up for the “Hadrian’s Wall, Roman Britain & the Scottish Borders” day tour. What unfolded was a truly fascinating journey back in time, transforming a vague historical concept into a tangible, awe-inspiring reality.
Our adventure began in Edinburgh, where we met our Rabbie’s guide and fellow travelers. The mini-coach journey south through the Scottish Borders was beautiful, with rolling hills and charming landscapes setting a picturesque scene. Our guide, as always with Rabbie’s, was a fantastic storyteller, expertly weaving together the history of Roman Britain, the local folklore, and the enduring legacy of Hadrian’s Wall.
As we approached the Wall, the anticipation grew. Built by Emperor Hadrian in 122 AD to guard the wild northern frontier of the Roman Empire, this massive defensive fortification once stretched 73 miles (117 km) coast-to-coast. Today, much of the original stone has been repurposed over centuries by local communities for buildings and fences, so you won’t find a continuous, towering barrier. However, there are several incredibly well-preserved sections that allow you to truly walk in the footsteps of Roman legionaries.
We had the opportunity to walk along a few of these sections, and standing on the ancient turf, gazing out at the expansive, undulating landscape, was incredibly powerful. You could almost feel the presence of those Roman soldiers, enduring the often harsh British weather, keeping watch for Pictish raiders. The sheer scale of the engineering feat, even in its reduced state, is breathtaking.
A major highlight of the tour, and a place I could have easily spent an entire day, was Vindolanda. This isn’t just a ruin; it’s one of Europe’s most significant Roman archaeological sites, an active dig where new mysteries are constantly being uncovered. The ongoing excavations are truly impressive, with archaeologists meticulously unearthing layers of history, revealing the daily lives of the soldiers and their families who once lived here. The museum exhibit at Vindolanda is equally captivating, housing astonishingly well-preserved artifacts, including the famous Vindolanda tablets – wooden writing tablets offering rare insights into Roman life on the frontier. I loved the shoe display and couldn’t get over how many ancient shoes they recovered; the coin display was equally great. I was thoroughly impressed by the depth of information and the tangible connection to our ancestors, although I would have loved a guided tour offering more information.
Another key stop was the magnificent Jedburgh Augustinian Abbey. This beautifully preserved medieval monastery has stood through 700 years of turbulent history, a testament to enduring faith and architectural prowess. While there was an extra fee to enter and explore the abbey’s interior, we gladly paid it. Wandering through its grand ruins, imagining the lives of the monks who once walked its cloisters, was a wonderfully atmospheric experience.
Of course, no tour of the Scottish Borders would be complete without a moment at the border itself! Our guide made a quick, fun stop at the exact line, marked by a large stone boldly declaring “Scotland” on one side and “England” on the other. It was a classic photo opportunity and a lighthearted reminder of the historical divisions and eventual unions that shaped these two nations.
Even though it was a long cloudy and cold full day, it was truly a fascinating day. Hadrian’s Wall, coupled with the rich history explored at Vindolanda and Jedburgh Abbey, painted a vivid picture of Roman Britain and its enduring legacy. Rabbie’s delivered a well-paced, engaging, and informative tour, making complex history accessible and exciting. For anyone seeking a deep dive into Roman Britain and a glimpse of ancient frontier life, this tour is an absolute must-do.